Winter Fair Isle Hat

Fair Isle patterns have been catching my eye lately . . . and I kinda sorta need a new hat . .  . so instead of working my to do list this week, I made this hat.  It’s based off a knitting pattern and once I was beyond the point of no return, I remembered that crochet patterns with a single stitch diagonal line generally don’t work.  Maybe one day I’ll learn to knit so I can make these kinds of creations properly.


G Hook (Furls)

Lion Brand Heartland in Black Canyon (MC)

Lion Brand Landscapes in Coral Reef (CC)

Fake Fur

#5 Cotton Thread

Abbreviations & Notes

MC – Main Color

CC – Contrast Color

SC – Single Crochet

BLO – Back Loop Only

Ch. – Chain

St. – Stitch

SC2Tog – Single Crochet Two Together

When working in Fair Isle, float the yarn behind the stitches until it is used again.  If it won’t be used for more than 5 stitches, work it behind the middle stitch so it doesn’t get too loopy.  Don’t pull the floats too tight.  (I’m not quite sure how I feel about this technique vs carrying the non-used color under the stitches. It seems a bit messy to me.) 

When floating the yarn, keep the main color on top and the contrast color on the bottom when bringing them in and out of your stitches. Using them consistently will prevent the yarns from twisting. 


This hat was inspired by this free knit Bernat Mosiac pattern.  This was made to fit my large head. 


With MC chain 8

Row 1: SC in second chain from hook, SC across (7)

Rows 2-80: SC in BLO across (7)

Join ends with slip stitch across.

Body of Hat

Round 1: With MC ch1, work 90 SC evenly around the side of the brim, join to 1st st.  (90)

Rounds 2-13: Work the first twelve rows of the 18 stitch repeat of Chart I 5 times.  Ch 1 at the beginning and join to 1st st of each round.   (90)

Round 14: With CC, ch 1, SC around, join to first st.  (90)

Round 15: With MC, ch 1, (13 SC, SC2Tog) six times, join to first st.  (84)

Rounds 16-29: Work the first thirteen rows of the 12 stitch repeat of Chart II 7 times.  Ch 1 at the beginning and join to 1st st of each round.   Move the decreases (SC2Tog) marked in row 15 down to row 13.  (42 at the end of round 29)

Round 30:  With MC, ch 1, SC around, join to first st.  (42)

Round 31: Ch 1, (SC, SC2Tog) fourteen times. (28)

Round 32: Ch 1, SC2Tog across. (14)

Round 33: Ch 1, SC2Tog across. (7).  Fasten off with long tail to close.  With tapestry needle weave in and out of stitches in final round and pull tight to close.  Weave in ends and attach pom pom.

Pom Pom Pattern

I made a pom pom following this tutorial from KMT Creations.



Diamond Baby Blanket

This is one of my holiday projects. A baby blanket for the Prayer Shawl Ministry. 


F Hook (Furls)

Lion Brand Mandala yarn in Unicorn


I don’t like to have Ch3s at the beginning of rows so I started each row with a Ch2 and then a DC in the first stitch to replace each Ch3. 

I completed this over vacation and entered it in the Iowa State Fair. Got some good feedback Eventually it will make its way to church. 

Lost In Time Blanket

One of my many WIPs at the moment is a Lost In Time Shawl.  I discovered this wonderful pattern by Johanna at Mijo Crochet.  I have a feeling that many more of her patterns are in my future.  They are beautiful and I have a stash of yarn to use. I have just joined the Prayer Shawl Ministry at church so I’m planning on several shawls and baby blankets.

As I was working on it I had the urge to turn it into a straight blanket.  So while I wassupposed to have been preparing for vacation, I’ve been spending my evenings crocheting, frogging, calculating algebra and crocheting again to figure out how to turn a triangle into a rectangle.  Johanna gave me permission to share my blanket but the pattern is hers, so please refer to her website for more details.


2 Caron Cakes in Cherry Chip

H Hook (Furls)



This blanket has a repeat of 36 stitches.  My blanket was 111 stitches wide (3×36 plus 3 end stitches).  I chained 112 to start.  Each row then has 111 stitches (you have no idea how long it took me to figure out how to make every row the same length).  I found it really important to COUNT AFTER EVERY ROW.  An error in the early rows can mean an extra shell further up and that just won’t work . . . trust me I had the frogged yarn piles to prove it.


I prefer to have the turning chains not count as stitches so I just chain 2 for DC rows and 1 for SC rows (blue circles on the chart).  This is different from Johanna’s pattern.

Be really careful at either end of each row.  Make sure you don’t stitch into spaces that aren’t there, especially in rows 1-6.

The green sections in rows 9-12 are just highlighting that the first and last shells are different.  They only have seven stitches instead of eight.

This is about half way through. Just need to take a break as I’m off on vacation and am choosing to take only unstarted projects to save space in the suitcase. 

Owl Tote

I needed an excuse to make this gorgeous pattern from the Hat and I. . . and Amelia needed a dance bag.  I’ve learned my lesson from Zoe’s bag and used cotton this time.  Zoe’s bag is sagging so much I think I’m going to go back and redo the handles and add a cotton lining.


F Hook (furls) for the Owls

G Hook (furls) for the Hexagons

H Hook (furls) for slip stitching the hexagons together

Lion Brand Landscapes in Boardwark – 2 skeins for the Owls.  Yellow and orange sections for the noses.

Hobby Lobby I Love This Cotton in Pewter- 2 skeins for the Hexagons

Vanna’s Choice in White for the Eyes

16 buttons

Yarn needle that will fit through the button holes AND take yarn

Threader or three (I broke the two I had on the last button I threaded!)

Handles (I got these at JoAnn’s)


Owl Tote’em from The Hat and I.


I followed the pattern pretty closely with the following changes:

On the second or third round of the hexagons, I looped through the back of the owl ears so they didn’t stick out.

I sewed all the way around the eyes so they were attached more securely.

I’m not sure what I did wrong with starting the hexagons but the owls are a more slanted than they should be.

Strawberry Trifle Puff Slouch

When I first saw the new colors for Caron Cakes I zeroed in on the Strawberry Trifle color way.  Greys, creams and corals. . .what’s not to love?  It took a while for me to catch it at Michaels during my weekly trips with Zoe while Amelia’s at dance.

I wanted to make myself a hat.  I was inspired to do something puffy.  I loved this heart hat and diligently watched the Spanish(?) video and took notes (I don’t speak Spanish other than what I learned during Amelia’s Dora obsession).  But, alas, the hearts were too big and the spaces gargantuan for an Iowan winter.  However, I do think I’ve found my new favorite brim.

So I switched to a puff stitch.  I’m slowing becoming more comfortable starting hats from the brim but it took a lot of tries to be happy with the spaces between puffs, experimenting with hook size and how many chains to include with and between stitches.  The ridiculous amount of time this took me probably wasn’t helped by the terrible cold that took over me this week.  Let this be a lesson to you – do NOT get a massage if you’re coming down with a cold.

This ended up being a slouch hat, mostly because once I got nine rows in and realized I should be decreasing, I really didn’t want to frog any more and I thought I’d see how a slouch would work. . . . lets just say, my big head and slouches just don’t go together.  So this will go in my donation pile and I’ll make another beanie one after I’m done writing this up.

OK.  I’ll stop rambling and get to the pattern. . .


Caron Cakes in Strawberry Trifle – I ended up using most of the cake

F Hook (Furls) for the brim

I Hook (Furls) for the body of the hat

Clover Pom Pom Maker

Darning needle


Special Stitches:

Chainless Foundation Double Crochet (CFDC) – Yarn over, Insert hook through ch underneath the last stitch, yarn over, draw up a loop, ch 1, yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook, yarn over and pull through final 2 loops on hook. This was a great tutorial from Maggie’s Crochet.

Puff Stitch – Yarn over, insert hook in space between puffs, yarn over and pull up a loop even with hook 4 times, yarn over and pull through all 9 loops on hook.  Please note that unlike the traditional puff stitch you will not ch 1 to close.  This reduces the space between puffs and cuts the airiness of the hat down, however you do need to be more careful not to drop a stitch. 

Puff 2 Together (Puff2Tog) – Yarn over, insert hook in space between puffs, yarn over and pull up a loop even with hook 3 times, yarn over, insert hook in space between next set of puffs, yarn over and pull up a loop even with hook 4 times, yarn over and pull through all 16 loops on hook.

Brim (Smaller hook):

Round 1:  Chain 3, complete 72 CFDCs (or any multiple of 2 to fit the circumference of the wearer’s head – I have a 24″ head).  Slip St to join. (72 CFDCs)

Round 2: *FPDC in first stitch, DC in second stitch*, repeat from *to* around. Slip St to join. (36 FPDCs, 36 DCs).  Fasten off first color and skip to beginning of next color, reserving the rest of the first color for the edging.

Body (larger hook):

Round 1: Join next color to any part of brim.  Puff Stitch in each DC (skipping the FPDCs) around.  Join with slip stitch to first puff. (36 Puffs)

Round 2-9: Slip stitch to space between first and second puffs.  Pull up a loop and Puff Stitch in each space between puffs around. Join with slip stitch to first puff. (36 Puffs)

Round 10: Slip stitch to space between first and second puffs. *4 Puff Stitches, 1 Puff2Tog*.  Repeat from *to* around.   Join with slip stitch to first puff. (24 Puffs, 6 Puff2Togs)  Decreases will need to be adjusted for different sized hats, so long as they are even, it should be fine.

Round 11:  Repeat Round 2. (30 Puffs)

Round 12:  Slip stitch to space between first and second puffs.  1 Puff Stitch, *Puff2Tog, 3 Puffs*.  Repeat from *to* around, ending with 2 Puffs.   Join with slip stitch to first puff. (18 Puffs, 6 Puff2Togs)

Round 13: Repeat Round 2. (24 Puffs)

Round 14: Slip stitch to space between first and second puffs. *2 Puff Stitches, 1 Puff2Tog*.  Repeat from *to* around.   Join with slip stitch to first puff.  (12 Puffs, 6 Puff2Togs)

Round 15: Repeat Round 2. (18 Puffs)

Round 16:  Slip stitch to space between first and second puffs. *1 Puff Stitch, 1 Puff2Tog*.  Repeat from *to* around.   Join with slip stitch to first puff.  (6 Puffs, 6 Puff2Togs)

Round 17:  Slip stitch to space between first and second puffs. Puff2Tog around.   Join with slip stitch to first puff.  Finish off with a long tail (6 Puff2Togs)

With a darning needle, weave through the puffs (see picture) and pull tight to pull the top of the hat together.  Pull to the inside of the hat and fasten securely.  Add a pom pom to the top.

Edging (smaller hook):

Attach reserved first color to the brim of the hat.  *Puff Stitch WITH the extra ch 1 to close off the puff, sk 1 stitch, slip stitch in next stitch to the RIGHT*.  Repeat from *to* around.   Join with slip stitch to bottom of first puff.  (36 Reverse Puffs)


Zoe’s Dance Bag


Bag –

Letters –



Caron Cakes in Rainbow Sherbet

I Hook (Furls) for the bag

E Hook for the letters and Mandala 


Made it a smaller by 1 set of 6 sts. 

84 sts around

Handles: placed markers at 11, 31, 53, and 73. Chained 50 for each handle. Try standing sc for the handles. 

Elegant Caron Cake Hat

I’ve had this pattern on pinterest for a while.  I don’t love it quite as much as I had hoped but I do like the color contrasts, particularly in the bottom half of the hat.


Caron Cakes (about 1/3 of a cake) in Pistachio

G Hook (Furls)

Pattern:  This is a free pattern from Crochet Kim.


I added rows after rows 25 and 32.  If I make this again I would add a few more rows to the brim.  It fits my massive noggin but if I make it for anyone else, I will go down a hook size to my (recently overworked) Furls F Hook.